Kiwi Kayaking

October-November 2004

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.
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by Barb Roy
Kea prepares to start “Tea” (our snack) at
North Gable on the North Island.

TUTUKAKA COAST

After loading lunch, snorkeling gear, camera accessories and other survival essentials into a sleek two-person sea kayak, my guide Kea and I bid stable ground farewell. I took the front seat in order to acquire some good shots along the northeastern side of New Zealand’s North Island. My camera was held on my lap for easy access, safe in a dry-bag.

“All set up there?” asked Kea, who was on loan from Paradise Coast Kayaking, a local outfit offering daily or multi-day kayaking excursions.

Kea certainly wasn’t lacking confidence and was fueled by a great enthusiasm. As we went, he explained about New Zealand’s colorful past, its marine reserves, and the country’s plans to keep wildlife parks pristine. Enthralled by the narrative, I was equally in awe of the scenery. We glided past numerous species of shore birds, over countless beds of kelp with overlapping fronds and through cave-like formations eroded into an outstretched shoreline. Steep, jagged cliffs and ancient lava flows, now softened by time, lay before us. I found it amazing that a past of such turmoil could now produce so much relaxation and tranquility. Other places were thick with native trees or lush in valleys of rolling green meadows.

“Ready for some whitewater?” asked Kea as we cleared the protection of another bay. The ocean swells became more pronounced as they rolled over shallow reefs, producing pools of swirling, foamy, whitewater.
View from Kukutauwhao on the North Island.

A curious seal popped its head up for a closer look. Before long, two more heads were up. What I wouldn’t give to be in the water with them, I thought, peering down into the clear depths. A vivid selection of invertebrate life decorated the reef below, intertwined with multi-colored varieties of sponge.

Landing, we hiked a trail up Kukutauwhao Island for a spectacular view of the surrounding area, had lunch on a secluded sandy beach and I was able to photograph the wildlife. Later in the day, Shane Orchard, the owner of the company and a marine biologist, joined us. Together, the three of us checked out a calm estuary where the water was pea-green and lined with a profusion of foliage and trees.

The next day we visited the Poor Knights, volcanic islands situated some 24 kilo- meters offshore, transporting the kayaks out and back by boat from Tutukaka. The water temperature was 21 degrees Celsius and the weather sunny (this was March).

Protected by Marine Reserve status, the waters below are nourished by subtropical currents, attracting an assortment of fish, eels, rays, soft corals, nudibranchs and sponges, drawing divers from around the world to visit the islands. The local Ngatiwai people have worked with the Department of Conservation to manage the islands and marine reserve, ensuring the environment will remain unspoiled. Access to the islands is restricted. Several rare and exclusive island residents include the red- crowned parakeet, the tuatara (ancient reptile), and the giant wetas (looks like a grasshopper).

BAY OF ISLANDS

Paihia was my next destination and gateway to the Bay of Islands. The town itself was booming with tourism activity. I found kayaks readily available along the main beach and a selection of tasty seafood restaurants. After a full day of kayaking throughout the islands (quite similar to the Gulf Islands), I attended a sound and light cultural show. A cast of young Maori students performed the Treaty of Waitangi, telling the story of New Zealand’s discovery.

PICTON

I arrived in Picton on the South Island just in time for a twilight paddle with Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company. Leaving the harbor, we paddled out into Queen Charlotte Sound and headed towards an island to see if we could catch a glimpse of the blue penguin colony coming out of the water and returning to land for the evening. A golden hue highlighted the shore as we went. Mountains towered all around, outlining the Sound.

Patiently we waited near an exit area for the tiny penguins. The sun was almost down, urging a hasty retreat. Just as I put my camera away, I saw the first head appear. Then another, and another. Scurrying up the bank like little toy soldiers they went.
An albatross off the coast of Kaikoura on the South Island.

KAIKOURA

Kaikoura, on the northeastern side of the South Island, was my final site of exploration in this amazing country. Several miles offshore on a charter boat, I photographed an albatross, the world’s largest seabird . This mighty giant looked like an over- grown seagull, and I noticed it had to fold its wings in a special way to tuck them in.

Sperm whales were next. The charter boat stayed a respectful distance while visitors photographed the young males as they rested on the surface before a dive to deep canyons several hundred meters down. It turns out the females prefer the warmer tropical water. Sound familiar?

After snorkeling with a playful colony of sea lions, and having wild dolphins come to check out the group of us, I decided I would have to return to Kaikoura for more on a future trip.

Birding, caving, diving, kayaking, wildlife watching: New Zealand has it all. I have never experienced so many marine encounters in one place. Kayaks are easy to rent, as was diving equipment. For tours, most of the operations provided everything needed.

GETTING THERE

Air New Zealand flies nonstop into Auckland (North Island) and from Sidney in Australia, www.airnewzealand.com.

I found Air New Zealand’s Business Class service enjoyable, especially during a 12 hour flight. www.newzealand.com and www.tourisminfo.govt.nz are great sites for more information.

The water is safe to drink, people are extremely friendly and helpful, and the value of New Zealand dollar is similar to the Canadian dollar. Their seasons are opposite of ours, and the two main islands are very different.

CONTACTS

© Barb Roy is a frequent contributor to WaveLength who lives in Surrey, BC.