July 2007
9:30: Left Boat Bay on Johnstone Strait and headed west up to Blackney Passage and Blackfish Sound hoping to see some whales. It was flat calm with a low mist hanging over the mountains, a perfect day on the Strait. As we listened to the talk on the VHF radio channel used by local whale watch boats, it became clear that either we were too early heading north this year or the Orca were late in their arrival—the reported sightings were few and far between. Fortunately, Humpbacks are making a comeback in this area, and this year eight were hanging around. Their usual haunt is between Stubbs Island and Bold Head on Swanson Island, so that’s where we headed. Chatter on the radio soon confirmed our reasoning, as the whale watchers had spotted a mother and her calf feeding in Weynton Passage.

There is nothing better than drifting quietly in the current listening to the blows of whales in the distance. This year we have been lucky to see not only Orca and Humpbacks but a couple of Minke whales as well.

Unlike Orca, Humpback whales spend little time on the surface, so following their progress can be more difficult. You may spot them in one location surfacing two or three times, then their tail flukes will signal a deep dive. All will be quiet for 10 or 15 minutes, they appear again, far away in a totally different location.

Other times they can put on a show, frolicking on the surface, slapping their pectoral fins or hurtling their bulk out of the water, creating a huge splash in a spectacular breaching performance.

13:30: It was time to think about where to anchor Loafer for the night, and we also wanted to put our kayaks in the water to take advantage of the fine weather and calm seas, so we headed back past Stubbs Island and through Weynton Passage. The tide had turned against us so we were bucking a 3 to 4 knot tide as we headed over to the Pearse Islands. The Pearse Islands are part of the Cormorant Channel Provincial Marine Park. The park includes the eastern portion of the Pearse Islands, the Plumper Islands and several nearby smaller islands at the junction of Queen Charlotte and Johnstone Straits.

14:00: We dropped the anchor in 30 feet of water, surrounded by a group of eleven islands of varying sizes. To our stern, our anchorage opened out onto Johnstone Strait with a beautiful vista down the east coast of Vancouver Island—a great spot to watch cruise ships go by. It’s not the best anchorage in a southeast wind, but the weather reports were in our favor.

The first thing we noticed was that the water was crystal clear. We could see the anchor chain reach all the way to the bottom, and the anchor laying in the eel grass. At the head of the bay was a derelict raft, begging to be explored. Impatiently, we launched our kayaks, donned our spray skirts and clambered in.

16:00: The Pearse Islands did not disappoint. Because of the islands’ location—at the junction of Johnstone Strait, Queen Charlotte Strait and Cormorant Channel—the many small passageways that separate them receive a fair amount of current, so sea life abounds. We paddled through the bull kelp forests along the shoreline, the clear water revealing the sea life below. Cod and greenling swam among the kelp stalks while hundreds of large spiny sea urchins nibbled on their holdfasts. A mother seal and her pup gazed at us, unperturbed as we glided past. The eleven islands provided us with hours of paddling enjoyment; we explored each passageway, every nook and cranny.

For self-sufficient sea kayakers, there is a well-established campsite on level ground, including a cleared path up the rocky shoreline to haul up kayaks. This is a beautiful spot!

Tomorrow, up to God’s Pocket.