Everyone has a favourite paddling destination, somewhere to dream about when stuck at work or in traffic and trying to get through the week. Luckily, for those of us who live on or near the coast, there is no shortage of amazing wilderness paddling opportunities nearby, whether you are a weekend warrior or multi-day tripper. Sometimes however, this means that the destinations closest to home are overlooked and wonderful paddling opportunities are missed. Dedicated wilderness paddlers may cringe at this next thought, but for my money, there is nothing better for a quick paddling fix than launching my boat from the middle of an urban centre and exploring the city from an entirely different perspective. Whether for a solitary sunrise paddle before work or a leisurely weekend cruise, urban paddling offers all the energy of the city, a surprising amount of wildlife and instant reprieve from the stress of city life.

Victoria is blessed with ideal urban paddling opportunities, with everything from tidal currents at the Gorge Rapids, where paddlers can practise their eddy turns in relative safety, to the sheltered waters of Portage Inlet and the commotion of the Inner Harbour. Snaking between dock pilings at low tide to practise manoeuvring my boat, checking out the many yachts and ships from around the world that stop over in the harbour, or grabbing some fish and chips for lunch from the Fisherman’s Wharf are just some of the many other options that keep me going back.

A surprising amount of wildlife also calls Victoria’s waters home. Cleanup efforts have paid off and the ongoing transition from polluting waterfront industries to office and residential uses means that wildlife is nicely re-established in the Harbour and Gorge and is abundant once outside the confines of the harbour. Sightings are likely to include great blue herons, curious harbour seals, bald eagles and river otters. Rogue sea lions have also been known to hang out near the mouth of the harbour and can usually be found lounging on nearby offshore rocks. To put it simply, Victoria offers a perfect snapshot of west coast paddling experiences. It’s no wonder then that a half-dozen or more kayak rental and tour operations line the shores of the Inner and Middle Harbours.

Renting is an easy way to get on the water, with operators such as Ocean River Sports (located on the water at 1824 Store Street, www.oceanriver.com, 1-250-381-4233) offering two-hour rentals from their Upper Harbour location and Selkirk Station Bike & Kayak (80 Regatta Landing, www.switchbridgetours.com, 1-866-383-1466). Victoria also boasts the stunning Gorge Rowing and Paddling Centre (www.gorowandpaddle.org/centres/gorge.php), a purpose built rowing and paddling facility located on the Selkirk Waters.

If you want to paddle your own boat, direct access to the harbour is limited but not impossible. The most central launching location is from the beach at Songhees Point, in front of the Delta Ocean Pointe Resort. From downtown Victoria, take the Johnson Street Bridge (“Blue Bridge”) and, after passing under the railway bridge, take the first left onto Tyee/Songhees Road. A few hundred metres down the road you will find a small beach ideal for launching. It is located a short carry from the road across a grassy park and is easily located directly below the very visible totem pole on the point. Parking is available on nearby streets, just be sure to check the signs for time limits and restrictions.

When launching, watch for taxiing seaplanes and the small harbour ferries near the point. With over 100 landings and takeoffs from the Inner and Middle Harbours every day, and hundreds of other boats coming and going, Transport Canada has put a “Traffic Scheme” in place to keep everything in order in the Inner and Middle Harbours. Generally this means that paddlers must stay as close to the shoreline as possible and are not permitted to cross the Inner or Middle Harbours. The regulations are available at most kayak rental shops in the area or can be downloaded (www.tc.gc.ca/pacific/marine/victoriaharbourtrafficscheme.htm).

From Songhees Point you are perfectly positioned for a leisurely paddle north under the Johnson Street Bridge through the area known as the Selkirk Waters and along the Gorge. In the Upper Harbour (north of the Johnson Street Bridge) there are no traffic scheme restrictions. It is approximately four nautical miles round trip to the Gorge Narrows, located directly under the Tillicum Bridge. Be sure to consult your tide tables if you’re heading any further up the Gorge and into Portage Inlet. At the Gorge Narrows, ebb (outgoing) tides can run up to eight knots creating standing waves, swift eddies and whirlpools. It is the perfect place for learning or practising eddy turns (often accompanied by practising recovery techniques!) but not a fun surprise if you are unprepared to navigate strong current.

If you want to avoid the possibility of strong currents altogether and enjoy the calm waters of Portage Inlet, it is possible to launch further up the Gorge from the public ramp beside the Victoria Canoe and Kayak Club (VCKC). VCKC is located at 355 Gorge Road West, a few hundred metres west of Tillicum Road. Parking is available in their parking lot or on the adjacent streets. The shallow waters of Portage Inlet are perfect for beginner paddlers or family outings and since the entire inlet is designated as a bird sanctuary, it is easy to spend an entire afternoon exploring all its nooks and crannies while watching out for birds.

If you are paddling west from Songhees Point, follow the shoreline towards West Bay making sure you stay north of small Colvile Island to keep clear of the seaplane taxiway. Thirsty paddlers may want to take note (and maybe some GPS coordinates) of the Spinnakers Pub patio located at the head of Lime Bay half a mile from the put in. It was one of Canada’s first brew pubs and is a perfect place for a post-paddle pint. Once across West Bay and well south of Berens Island you are free of the harbour traffic scheme and it is possible to cross the harbour and head back along the other side, but local kayak instructor Ben Garrett recommends continuing on towards the historic Fisgard Lighthouse on the Fort Rodd Hill National Historic Site. Built in 1860, it was the first lighthouse on Canada’s west coast and has been in operation ever since. The site makes the perfect lunch spot about three and a half nautical miles from Songhees Point. There is a small fee for admission to the site, but it is well worth it to enjoy the well kept grounds, picnic tables, public washrooms and interpretive displays. Just beyond the lighthouse you will find the entrance to the Esquimalt Lagoon. If the tides are right it is possible to sneak into the shallow waters for a great view of Hatley Castle, which you might recognize from its appearances in the X-Men movie series.

Fans of the This is The Sea DVDs will be happy to know that they don’t need to go to Scotland or Wales for some extreme tidal current action. Enterprise Channel between Trial Island and the mainland offers amazing opportunities for “park and play” surfing in a tidal race just minutes from downtown. The conditions are best during a strong flood tide or when the ebb tide opposes a westerly wind. Launching is possible from either side of a small isthmus, located at the east end of McNeill Bay. Street side parking is plentiful on Beach Road. However, if you don’t have a bombproof roll, immersion gear and equally skilled paddling partners to help you out of trouble, I recommend checking out the action from shore.

Finally, if an overnight getaway is really what you need and you don’t have time to leave town, nearby Discovery and Chatham Islands are perfect destinations for intermediate or more experienced paddlers. Launching is easy from one of two boat ramps at Cattle Point, which is accessed via Beach Road, north of Oak Bay in Uplands Park. Although the islands are only about two nautical miles offshore, strong currents and frequently choppy conditions can make for a challenging crossing. Strong navigation and paddling skills are a must, but the effort is worth it. There is plenty of camping in Discovery Island Marine Park on the south side of Discovery Island, as well as lots of wildlife and stunning views across the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the Olympic Mountains—all making the marine park the perfect place to camp out and enjoy a summer sunset. For more information on park facilities and restrictions, visit the BC Parks website (www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/discover.html).

Andrew Nolan is co-author of the book Paddling through History: Sea Kayak Vancouver and Victoria, a historical guide to the best urban paddling destinations in both cities.